Last week Monday I climbed Japan's tallest mountain, Mt. Fuji. Or Fuji-san as the Japanese affectionately call it. I call it, "The beast that I conquered." Fuji was GREAT! I loved every single moment of it, which is quite surprising being that every foreigner cringes at the name of this mountain. The usual complaints vary from, "It's soooo cold at the top" to "it's so slippery coming down" and everything else in between. Although I understand and sympathize with the whimpering crybabies, it ain't all that bad, people.
In short, here's what I learned from Fuji: sometimes the Japanese just do it best!
I climbed Fuji with Yukie and Junichi, a tag-team brother/sister duo who have been faithfully teaching me Japanese for a year now. (for free, might I add!) I have become great friends with them and so when they asked if I wanted to climb Fuji, I was all about it. They booked a Japanese tourguide to go with a group and I am convinced this was the best gift they could have ever given me. While the Japanese are known for loving the tours, (and Americans known for hating them) sometimes it DOES pay to have a pro. So... now onto the big day!
We arrive at Fuji around noon and begin the four hour hike to the 8th level, about halfway up the mountain. Now, you must understand, this hike can actually be completed in less than 2 hours if you are young and fit. But, although there were no sexier, more fit people that Junichi, Yukie, and I, alas we were with a big group consisting of middle-agers, grandpas and kids alike. So, we took it slow. So slow I could barely tell I was moving. This was quite annoying, especially when I did see other young, fit hikers practically bounding up the mountain, passing us at remarkable speeds. All along, just thinking, "How annoying. Who do they think they are? They're not so tough... I could keep up with them... heck they'd be trying to keep up with ME! Yeah!" Well, something along those lines, anyway. But, I resisted the urge to start a battle on the mountain and kept with the group. Slow but steady wins the race, right?! (At least I hoped it did...)
Finally, four hours later we arrive at the 8th level. We had a hut arranged for us to sleep, so we gobbled up a fish bento and some curry rice and hurriedly ran off to bed. We sleep like babies for 8 hours and then wake up to finish the trek. Let me explain that most people climb Fuji in the middle of the night. In the day, the heat is too sweltering to handle, so people hike at night even though the temperatures drop because of the high altitude. So, we hiked half in the afternoon, slept in the evening, and finished the journey at night.
So... Fuji Part II! With fresh legs we set off on the mountain to finish the climb. On the way up we see a sign that says 3 hours to the summit, but then our guide informs us it will be another 4 hours for us. Slow the first time around, slow now. Then again, there's really no rush. The mountain ain't going anywhere. And, really? What is the big freakin' rush?! I mean, if you get to the top in 2 or 3 hours, you end up sitting at the top, freezing your behind off as you wait for the sun to rise and warm your aching body. No thanks.
But, what is the best part of hiking Fuji at night, you ask? The stars! Way high up, above the clouds there were a gazillion stars and planets and the moon and it was beautiful. We even saw a couple of shooting stars and it was hard for me to keep my eyes off the stars and on the path. But, we trudged along, flashlight in hand, bundled up in winter clothes in August, hiking up the mountain. Only a few more hours to go before we'd see the stunning sunrise... or so I hoped.
Let me just add now that our tourguide was the MAN! After 4 hours of hiking we arrive at the top jsut 10 minutes before the first glimmers of sunrise began to flood the sky with color. I grab a front row seat, sit down and enjoy the view. And what a view it was. I watched the clouds rolling over the peak of the mountain then dropping and dispersing to leave a perfect view of the sunrise. It was worth every minute of the uphill climb.
We stayed at the top for about half an hour and then back down the mountain it was. The sun was already fully up and the heat beginning to penetrate our winter layers. We peeled back the parkas and shed down to t-shirts to walk the last leg of the trip. And, it is true what the gaijin say, the downhill sucks. It is crumbly gravel slipping and sliding underfoot as you try and maintain your balance. But what did I do? I turned on the IPod and cruised down the mountain, taking my time not to hurt my backside (or my ego) by falling, and enjoyed the view. Finally, now going downhill I could see the green trees and the lakes and the nearby cities that I had missed on the climb up the day before. And whenever I grew weary I had only to remember the beautiful sunrise to be reenergized.
At long last, another 4 hours later we reached the 5th level where we had started more that 24 hours before. Our bus was waiting to take us to one of my favorite places in Japan... onsen! The outdoor and indoor heated pools are heaven, especially to the weary hiker. I soaked in their warmth and let every muscle in my battered body relax and ease the exhaustion. Afterward, Yukie and Junichi and I had a nice lunch of ramen before boarding the bus to come home.
I loved every moment hiking Fuji. I loved the clear stars against the black backdrop of the night. I loved the warm curry dinner before a nice night's rest. I loved writing haiku with Junichi and Yukie on the way up. (It is very cold, but we will survive this night, and beat the mountain!) I loved arriving at the top, having worked every step of the way. I loved watching the sunrise, not as when it sneaks up on you after a long night of partying, but intentionally and purposefully enjoying it's beauty.
I loved it. I simply loved it.
